You're very welcome. The shaping of the sleeve must match the front and back shaping so that all the pieces fit together properly. 5. Knitters in small sizes usually need to make more increases for the sleeve than the body, and have to work fewer increases per row. Knitting on an Airplane and Other Travel Tips for Makers, Why You Shouldn't Buy a Knitter Yarn as a Gift. You can change the way increases look by adjusting the number of knit stitches between them. His tailor developed this style of sleeve to be more comfortable for him after the loss of his arm. Raglan Definition & Meaning - Merriam-Webster When working a raglan sweater pattern, each piece can be worked bottom-up or top-down. The top down version is entirely seamless which makes it very accessible for beginner sweater knitters. THE CIRCULAR YOKE Two ways of visualizing the circular-yoke sleeve and body. How to Knit 4 Different Types of Raglan Increases - YouTube We might need to finesse this later, but its a good starting point. Both sweaters are for my kiddos. When I get to the other side of the sleeve do I do it in the same order or do I reverse the way they lean? The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? If all of this is still sounding a bit much to take on by yourself, Im always adding patterns to my Teachable Workshops. If youve been reading this series, all of this information should sound familiar. Round to an even number. Put a safety pin where you want the neckline to land. You can use Kniterator to DIY your own basic top-down raglan sweater, yoke sweater, camisole, or cowl - all in your size and your gauge. 7 sizes; XS-3XL Part One: Getting Started . If rows used in shaping is MORE rows than you calculated when you worked out desired neck depth, youll need to either increase the number of bottom neck stitches or work more rate A rows. The casual, sporty look of raglans gives them a somewhat youthful look that has long made them a favorite in knitwear. and markers. LCx3 - work 6 stitches in a left leaning cable (3 stitches over 3 stitches) LCx2 - work 4 stitches in a left leaning cable (2 stitches over 2 stitches) ssk - slip as if to knit, slip as if to purl, knit the 2 slipped sts together. Is it possible to cut the armhole and add a rhombus or some similar piece? Please consider supporting me by purchasing the 100% ad-free PDF with full charts, schematics, and waist shaping formula for this pattern on my Ravelry or ETSY pages. When you knit a raglan the traditional top-down way ( as detailed in my tutorial ), what you're making for the yoke is a flat rectangle with a hole in the middle for your head and mitered corners, which are the raglan "seams.". (Not that I expect special treatment for my giant head children) The arm follows the same pattern, although to a less extreme degree. You can use cm - it all works the same. In August 2015 I released the book, Dovestone Hills, which coincided with the release of baa ram ewes Dovestone DK yarn. Karen Templer of Fringe Association notes that when she employs compound shaping, she can use top-down raglan methods to produce a sweater with sleeves akin to saddle shoulder styles. We dont reach our widest measurement until several inches below the underarm (and the larger you are, the truer that tends to be!). Those bust darts should extend part way into the sleeves. Throughout this Interweave series on raglan fit and construction, all contributors have proclaimed their love for top-down raglans and raglans in general. 40% will create a rounder neckline, 55% will be more shallow. UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? Another option is to eliminate more than two stitches in your first rate A row, which has the added benefit of creating an even more smooth curve. We change narrow dramatically from the full bust to the mid-chest, more slowly through the mid-chest, and fast again as we approach the neck. The sleeve cap and body can be shaped at different rates or at the same rate; just remember that in most cases, the sleeve and body need to have the same number of rows or rounds between the armhole and the neck. For a raglan to fit correctly, you would typically increase/decrease on each side of the body (and at the front and back) and on each side of the sleeve on every right-side row or every other round if working in the round. Its going to be a bit more involved for a raglan sweater. A raglan is a shoulder construction where the sleeves come all the way up to the neck. adventurous. Raglan length goes all the way up to your shoulder so it will be different for every sweater depending on neck width, depth. This ones for designers and knitters - lets talk about what makes a raglan click! #7 How to Knit Raglan Shaping, Knitting For Beginners, Sheila - YouTube I'm a bit of a nerd (ok, a really big one) and I've often wondered how I could create something like this. By determining desired stitch and row counts, and then determining the number of increases to make, you arrive at a sweater that fits perfectly. sweater neck do not work on children with large heads! Ive spent a lot of time studying it, making a few of my own tweaks and I now have much greater confidence that what Im about to knit is more than just a shot in the dark! Once youve worked those rows, place a stitch marker in the middle of the front stitches (if its odd number of stitches, mark the middle stitch with a locking stitch marker). UFO to WIP: Can This Crochet or Knitting Project Be Saved? Short Row Shaping at the Back Neck. Working short rows right across the back of the neck will create a little tiny bubble in the back of the neck, just like a bust dart. Please confirm you want to block this member. That code will be available when you purchase the patterns or digital book. Browse designs or Try DIY Also the all sizes _inc formula messes up all of my numbers. However it can also be worked in pieces and seamed together. Fundamentally, a raglan is a sweater that is shaped between the underarm and the neck with four columns of decreases that go from the front and back of each armhole up to the neck. Love the changes. The relatively smooth raglan lines on a sweater have to hang over these spots where curves get steeper and shallower. The Audubon Shrug by Lisa Shroyer, from her book, Knitting Plus.Raglan sweaters can be attractive on plus-size women, but its an issue of individual shape. Overall, consider how much neck depth the shoulder shaping is contributing, and evaluate how much additional depth neckline shaping adds. The technical storage or access is strictly necessary for the legitimate purpose of enabling the use of a specific service explicitly requested by the subscriber or user, or for the sole purpose of carrying out the transmission of a communication over an electronic communications network. I would not aim for a highly customized fit in a raglan, but you can certainly get a more body-conscious fit in a raglan than you would a drop-shoulder. By increasing evenly in all four sections of the sweater, you're creating raglans at a 45 angle to the neck . The technical storage or access is necessary for the legitimate purpose of storing preferences that are not requested by the subscriber or user. This seemed like a perfect opportunity to talk a bit about different types of seamless construction as there are 4 different seamless methods used in Dovestone Hills. Knit the stitch as normal. This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. You can definitely think critically about the instructions you encounter in patterns you follow or you could use it to write your own knitting pattern. As pointed out by April K., this percentage method works best for adult proportions. the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. That means the formula is: ((Stitches in front neck bottom neck stitches) divided by two) 1 = stitches to shape out on each side. Svalbard by Bristol Ivy It is acceptable to work a few extra rows into the Yoke-shaping is governed by measurement; let us take as an example the sweater given below. Either print and draw right on, or highlight cells to illustrate your dream shaping. I'm going to be extremely direct here, and if you think I'm wrong - write back and tell me. Stitch gauge information must be completed. It increases more rapidly between the neck and shoulders and at the end to curve around the underarm, [with] more gradual [increasing] in the section in between. I wouldnt increase all the way to the underarm as that will make your sleeve and body too large. Double-point needles or circular needles in the sizes Kristen TenDyke's Blog: How I design a top-down raglan pullover Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. You can do this by adding short rows across the back of the neck. The body and sleeves can be worked separately in pieces that are seamed together or the body and sleeves can be worked in the round to the armholes, then joined and worked in a single piece to the neck. Yours is a major contribution and I would like to applaud you. This method makes the pattern fit your gauge. Am enjoying your Craftsy class on short rows. ??? Important: Make a test square in the pattern stitch in Short rows cannot accommodate long straight vertical lines. However, it doesnt really give the most stable underarm area. Knitting is an art, but the engineering-part of my brain is constantly questioning why so many designs can't just be explained as formulas. The shaping is all absolutely identical, and you can see that this would have zero effect on the back neck. I hope that these examples get you started thinking about how much control you have over your raglan knitting projects :), 4607 Library Road Ste 220-206 Such a huge mystery for meSOLVED! Its deep back covers any unsightly lumps we may have, and the tailored style is classic. Or be a bit Put on a button-down or other non-stretch shirt with a shoulder seam. Generally I use M1R before and M1L after but reversing it works fine if you keep it consistent. Knitting In the Round 3 Ways: DPNs, Two Circulars, or Magic Loop? Here are four different ways to make raglan increases in knitting. Without a subpoena, voluntary compliance on the part of your Internet Service Provider, or additional records from a third party, information stored or retrieved for this purpose alone cannot usually be used to identify you. Today we are going to look into the pros and cons of knitting a sweater with raglan shoulder shaping and give you some pattern ideas to try out this method. Yoke depth is determined by the body's dimensions, Raglan shaping needs to mirror the body's shape, "Raising the back neck too quickly," and other short row shaping myths, Myth 1: Short rows in raglans can be worked across the back neck only, Myth 2: Short rows in the neckline can raise the back neck too fast, Modifying a raglan sweater to fit you perfectly. Any. how to improvise a top-down sweater Archives - KT's Slow Closet In the picture to the left, the top swatch is worked with short rows and the bottom is worked with bind-offs, but the shaping is the exact same. I debated changing the Raglan increases because I generally prefer to have the increase line extend all the way down below the armpit. The style is was named for Fitzroy Somerset, Lord Raglan, the commander-in-chief of forces during the Crimean War. Its a vertical measurement and you just apply your row gauge to the number of rows worked. Without this shaping, the collar will be pulled to the back. For each raglan seam I do one increase before and a different one after it. I am so tired of looking for a pattern that I have in my head with yarn that doesnt seem to match any of their gauges! This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from try to match someone else's gauge. For a bit more refinement you could have a mirrored M1R and M1L, and if you were working on a lace cardigan, you might opt to use a yo (yarnover) increase as it would fit with the lace. I wanted to make sure it was perfect for you, and I'm grateful for her sharp eye and clear voice. Im planning a top down raglan that will be partly machine knit and partly hand knit (color work on body and sleeves just below division from yoke). How to improvise a top-down sweater, Part 2: Raglans and neck shaping Jean, I'm so happy to share what I know with others, and I'm glad you think this is useful! Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102. Icelandic Yoke Sweater pattern by Elizabeth Zimmermann Most body shapes dont increase the size of their upper arms as fast as the bust size increases. calculator can accommodate another increment or two for fine tuning. Somewhat Stretchy : Raglan pattern Note - if you have a hump on your back you can solve that with short rows - but they'll extend past the raglan lines so that they don't create that sharp little bubble. Thank you so much. This action will also remove this member from your connections and send a report to the site admin. The test square should be made by The short rows may be worked all around the neckline, or just back and forth so that stitches are unworked in the front neck only. Comments must be approved before showing up. But if you want to love raglans, or have already lost your heart to them, compound shaping (and all the other tips from this series) can help you produce the best garments possible. Step 4: Finesse your shaping - have you used all your rows? It starts with a cowl neck, uses short rows to shape the back of the neck and then uses raglan increases on either side of a decorative seam. Is this correct? On small-busted women, especially those with large upper arms or lower bodies, these same lines can serve to emphasize that disproportion. The shaping of the sweater is based on raglan styling from the top down. How to improvise a top-down sweater, Part 5: The art of sweater shaping This gives you 8 increases (or decreases). I just love this sort of historical stuff. Ready to see what Kniterator can do for you? If there are just a few stitches at the shoulder, consider adding shaping for the back neck in addition to the shaping for the front neck. Download Knitting Plus or Easy Seamless Sweaters to Knit! Thank you so much for this tutorial! Check the illustration below. Raglan shaping is usually worked from the top down and involves a long, slanted seam running from the neck to the underarm. The pattern is generated so that you can use any size knitting needle with any weight yarn. One in about a 3-4T and the second will be about a The technical storage or access is required to create user profiles to send advertising, or to track the user on a website or across several websites for similar marketing purposes. You can space your turns as far apart or as close together as you like in the same row, but if you want to create a scoop neck, youll need to bind off instead of working short rows. Lift that stitch up with the left needle (see photo #2). body or the arm length. I love the neckline, too. Great job and thank you for sharing! IMO. In the final analysis, you may never come to love raglans, and thats okay. That's why top down raglan are the least customizable of all sweaters. The defining characteristics of Raglan sweaters is that they have no shoulder seam. Hello, thanks for your interesting explanation. Compound raglans literally bend the curve, adding small arcs along the raglan line that help sweater fabric lay more smoothly on the upper bodys curves. Pittsburgh, PA USA 15102, Add neck shaping to your raglan with short rows. Whichever unit you use, be sure not to round. Add a few extra raglan increases after you've split for the arms and body. Divide shoulder width by 2 for starting neck depth. BTWmany of the Dovestone patterns are on my project list :). Any questions? In this video we learn how to use a formula to easily calculate shaping in knitting. This was traditionally the most common method of top-down knitting as its very easy to knit. Contains spam, fake content or potential malware, How to Sew Crochet Motifs to Your Clothes, 5 Things That Made Our Yarn-y Hearts Happy at Yarn Fest Loveland 2023, Floral Beaded Jewelry Patterns for Mothers Day, Unique Ways to Have Quality Yarn-Time with Mom. To illustrate this, here are two swatches, both worked with the exact same shaping rate as suggested above. Ysolda Teague explains how she calculated her compound raglan yoke for Stripy, a multi-part tutorial on fit. So cute for a summer tee, dont you think? Its typical to leave a stitch on either side of the raglan shaping. I will definitely take a closer look at your spreadsheets. To this measurement, add your trim depth. 1. Determine how deep you want the front neck to be - desired front neck depth, This might be a good time to talk about the goal of short rows. This is awesome! For a crew neck, youll want to use two shaping rates to eliminate stitches, so that youre getting rid of stitches faster at the bottom of the neckline. I think many simple designs can be explained as formulasthough it's not the norm, so people don't tend to do it very often. Learn how to knit the easy way, how to knit the raglan armhole shapingHere is the link to my other knitting channelwww.youtube.com/channel/UC7dn1Kn3wCkjERvV3. Very nice overview of techniques! About the needle size. that which is calculated by this method. I have included mostly simple sweaters using the raglan sweater construction. For example, sleeve length can be easily extended or shortened simply by ceasing knitting at the desired point. The pattern is written as if the pattern stitch is stockinette stitch. (This strand is marked in photo #1 with a red line.) The technical storage or access that is used exclusively for statistical purposes. So watch out for all the patterns, there will be a new one added every couple of days! Any ideas for a neat front neck increase? These steps assume you create a crew neck a shallow, round neckline. Cecelia. If you want to join me virtually for a 12-week knitting adventure as we mastergarment fit and modification, then my signature masterclass is waiting for you here. PS - many thanks to Anne Marie Hart for technical editing support on this post! Copy the reflected apex to the main sheet and join the dots. I just finished a raglan sweater, and Im really enjoying wearing it. For many women, these are unfortunate places for excess fabric. Typically patterns suggest a Backwards Loop Cast-On. You do this by knitting to the sleeve, using a tapestry needle threaded with waste yarn and slipping all of the sleeve stitches onto the thread (tie it together, so you dont lose the stitches!!). Might be easiest starting with a pattern? Lisas List: 10 Reasons Knitting Is Better Than Dating, Spurned Gifts: When Knit & Crochet Gifts Went Wrong. The most basic would be a kfb (knit into the front and back of the stitch). The content is awesome. When Lisa Shroyer discussed armholes that do and dont work for knitters, she noted the figure attributes that can get in the way of raglan love. the shaping formula - YouTube E.g. are cast on to give ease to the shape of the torso. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. I am in a happy place. For a crew neck, this is typically 40 55 % of front neck certain stitches. I cant wait to try this formula out. This is the final post of our series. Interestingly, in the Crimean War Baron Raglan fought alongside British Army General James Brudenell, the 7th Earl of Cardigan, after whom the cardigan sweater is named! Or you can choose one of our designs, and get the pattern custom generated for your gauge and measurements. Add a few stitches to your bicep to give yourself some extra room. If youve got pattern work near the neck, you can even put those short rows lower down the back as well. If youd like to make a deeper neckline by binding off, you have so many choices! These short rows work the exact same way that binding off in the middle and decreasing on either side works. Heres Interweave Knits Editor and Knitting Plus author, Lisa Shroyer, to tell you more about raglan construction and how it works for plus-size knitting. These tutorials and the mention of your Craftsy course have given me more tools and confidence that I may actually make a decent go at making one of these designs! If you are accustomed to It would be back and forth in rows although you can still do it after you join in the round and then resume working in the round once the short rows are complete. It can be US or mm sizes. I have one question, is there any way to amend a lower armhole in a top-down ranglan sweater when you have finished the sweater? the example covers shaping a sleeve, but the formula can be applied to any shaping you want. We arent shaped like that! However when I think about looking at the sweater as a whole it seems like on one side you would want stitches to lean left and on one side you would want stitches to lean right to make it symmetrical. While it looks like Caelius uses yarnovers as the increases, its actually got a centred decrease with a yarnover, and then the increases are outside this. Multiply neck shaping depth by your row gauge to figure out how many rows youll be working this shaping over. The chest measurement is treated as the 100%; all other measurements are some portion of that measurement., This is a pattern for working the body of the sweater as one piece starting from the top. Cant thank you enough for this detailed explanation and worksheet. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other Here are five of the most common raglan adjustments that modern pattern designers use to create a better-fitting top-down seamless sweater. We use cookies to optimize our website and our service. Great for those new to crochet! If you are knitting from the top down the raglan seams are all increases, but if you were knitting bottom-up, they would be decreases. This is a diagonal measurement and is more or less useless for predicting your fit because you won't know where it begins or ends in relation to your neck or your underarm. If your pattern has a stitch between the front and the shoulders for the raglan increase itself, assign that stitch to the sleeve. When the raglan increases end early and there are many rows of straight knitting before getting to the point where the stitches are added for the underarm join, I have found that the finished sweater doesnt always lay flat just in the upper chest and back. If you're a designer and you're doing this and you want to help me understand what your goal was, please do write back! Interested in getting technical content, inspiration, and fit tips delivered directly to your inbox? This size allows you to get a good measurement Thank you! The raglan sweater can be knit either top down or bottom up. Note: I've used inches below. Start here! These lines extend from the underarm up to the neckline finish. Posted on 27 Sep 10:33. googletag.cmd.push(function() { googletag.display('interstitial-ad');}); Save patterns, share updates, and connect with your community. Sign up here! Short rows keep us from knitting stitches. These diagonal seams are created by regular decreases that gradually taper the yoke from the underarm width to the neck width. For bonus points, reference a sweater you have and love that has the perfect crew neck. The raglan sweater style is fun to knit, and I love how the shaping becomes a design element. This is the number of inches youll need to lower the front neck to create your dream neckline. I will say that this method can produce extra fabric in the underarms if your full bust point is low, which is why I'm working on that other post! You can find more info about Anne Marie and the. Top-Down Knitting - Elizabeth Smith Knits 2) Each human body follows some geometrical principles and ignores others. Lisas designs from Knitting Plus are lovely. In contrast, the raglan line on Lily Chins Floret Crochet Crop Top, with traditional shaping, forms a straight line. On the left side, in red, there are two arrows showing raglan length. As long as that shoulder is around 2 wide, you should have adequate room in the back neck without adding extra shaping. Lets call this C. If you have an even number of stitches, simply divide bottom neck stitches by two. This will be neck shaping rows. So, the basic structure of the raglan shaping begins at the neck with increases on the body and sleeves on every round, then it changes to alternating between 1 round of body and sleeve increases and 1 round of shaping on either body OR sleeves (depending on the size), then it changes to working increases on the body and sleeves every other Kniterator, the top-down raglan knitting pattern calculator This decorative seam continues down into the a-line body and forms the focus of interest for the sweater. Custom Raglan Cardi Knit-Along Week 3: Adding Waist Shaping Divide the number of shoulder stitches by the stitches per inch from your gauge. Raglan Construction A Look at Top-Down Knitting Techniques. Crafty Confessions: Do You Make a Gauge Swatch? NOTE: subtract F from this number to get the number you are increasing to during the raglan shaping. If you make sure your neck increases are a few stitches in from the edge this will give you a clean line of stitches to pick up from. I love hearing what you have to say! There's a Pullover or a Hat for the Rebirth KAL! Even when you adjust armhole depth on a sweater pattern and recalculate the raglan increases or decreases, youre going to see a smooth(ish) diagonal line between body and sleeves. Neither will cause bunching or will change the shape of the sweater in any way. I have to learn a lot!. Knitting a Raglan Sweater Pattern the Simple Way | Interweave I am narrower at the shoulder and wider in the body and hip area. Instead of avoiding those patterns, what if you put in some neck shaping of your own? You need room for your neck, or your sweater will ride up onto your neck and pull. This is a useful construction that allows you to try on the sweater as you go. Thank you so much for this information. Ex: If your trim will be 1 of ribbing, add 1 to this depth. The more complicated a design gets, the more challenging it is to make into a formula, and so many of the designs coming out these days are pretty complicated. For a crew neck, were looking at a shallow neckline, just enough to create room for your neck. Heres the thing - if youre used to working the same shaping all the way from the neck to the underarm, you may have noticed that creates a very straight line, and fundamentally is making a rectangular pyramid. k2tog - knit 2 sts together. For the hips an a-line shape should work well. In raglans worked from the bottom up, the raglan shaping is achieved with decreases. Being a word person, I got to wondering about the origin of the word raglan, so I did a little research. Written for a bust measurement of 34 inches around the underarm, with about 6 inches of positive ease. My FO demonstrates the wisdom of her advice (as well as her eye for a stunning cable motif). There are some beautiful raglan sweaters out there that dont have neck shaping. I have been using Excel for years to ensure I understand the pattern and to create a clear, clean pattern customized just for me! critical to the proper fit of any sweater pattern. Copyright 2023, Kristen TenDyke Designs | Powered by Shopify.
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